Chelliah Toppu in Banting
Malaysia’s rich and diverse history is woven with threads of migration and resilience. One such chapter is the legacy of the indentured Indians, who played a pivotal role in our country’s development. Dwelling in the rubber estates of Malaya, they built a close-knit society where traditions thrived despite challenging circumstances.
The sharing of toddy, a fermented coconut palm wine, became a symbol of camaraderie.
To relive this piece of our history, we ventured to Chelliah Toppu in Banting, Selangor, which has been making toddy since the 80s. Here’s a glimpse into the drink’s rich history and one of the few remaining establishments in Malaysia that still serves it from a claypot, at a rubber estate.
Toddy was referred to as the drink of Indian labourers
Image credit: Varnam Malaysia via Website
In the early 1750s, Tamil migrants from India began to make their mark here, settling predominantly in the rubber estates of Malaya. These early Indian migrants were the unsung heroes of Malaya’s burgeoning rubber industry – working tirelessly in the plantations, they were the backbone of a vital economic sector.
The rubber trees were not just a symbol of wealth but the result of immense effort, both by men and women, who laboured with dedication under the watchful eyes of British overseers. Dressed in sarees and sporting pith helmets, these workers cleared land and planted seeds, their contributions etched into the very landscape of Malaya.
By the late 19th century, rubber had become Malaya’s prime commodity.
Prominent historian Kernial Singh Sandhu poignantly described in his research, Notes and Memoranda: A Note On the Migration Policies of India and Malaya how, despite the wealth generated, the workers who toiled for it were often treated poorly.
During the Japanese occupation, conditions worsened, and many of these workers paid the ultimate price. His research highlighted the grim reality: “Every railway sleeper and rubber tree in Malaya marks the remains of an Indian”.
In moments of respite, these workers turned to toddy—a simple, unprocessed beverage made from the sap of coconut trees. It became a means of unwinding after a long, hard day of grueling labour.
Although seemingly harmless, toddy became entangled in racial and health controversies. By 1916, the drink faced increasing scrutiny and eventually a ban in public spaces.
Dr Malcolm Watson’s report to the Planters’ Association of Malaya blamed public health issues on the unsanitary habits of Tamil workers, particularly criticising their drinking of toddy and their primitive personal hygiene, which he deemed difficult, if not impossible, to improve.
Yet, amidst these challenges, toddy remained a significant part of the workers’ culture.
Malaysian academic Parameswari Krishnan noted that profits from toddy sales contributed to government revenues and welfare funds for the labourers. However, by 1946, the beverage’s presence on the plantations dwindled, and it gradually faded from the mainstream.
Today, finding toddy can feel like uncovering a hidden gem. This drink, once so integral to the lives of Malaya’s early Indian migrants, now serves as a nostalgic reminder of the resilience and contributions of those who shaped Malaysia’s history. Helping to preserve that history is Chelliah Toppu.
One of the oldest licensed toddy brewers in Malaysia
Chelliah Toppu has been a cherished landmark since the 1980s, originally established by the legendary Ammani, known as the “Toddy Queen” of Banting. Now run by her enterprising descendants, this nostalgic shack located just an hour’s drive from KL continues to offer a taste of history.
When you arrive, don’t be deterred by the seemingly closed wooden facade. The entrance is tucked away down a small alley on the left of the building – hidden but waiting to reveal a secret.
The vibe is laid-back and inviting at the open-air restaurant. Plastic chairs and tables are scattered across a spacious area surrounded by rubber trees. On a slow Monday, there’s no rush to snag a seat, but weekends turn this place into a lively hub, so diners can expect a bit of a buzz then.
Affordable and mouthwatering, this restaurant is a favourite among locals and curious visitors like us who are eager to experience the unique charm. As we dined, we couldn’t help but notice a group of Chinese uncles with rosy cheeks, clearly enjoying their time.
Fermented coconut palm wine served in a claypot jar
We decided to dive right into what this joint is famous for – their toddy.
The preparation of fermented coconut palm wine is a meticulous process, beginning with the extraction of sap from the cut flowers of the coconut palm, where containers are attached to the stumps to collect the liquid.
Initially sweet, the sap soon becomes murky and sour as fermentation occurs, developing a strong, yeast-like aroma that some may find overpowering.
To preserve its freshness and flavour, the cloudy-white beverage served in a claypot jar is perfect for sharing with friends over lunch or dinner. Priced at RM30, it’s just what you need on a hot day.
You can also request extra ice cubes to keep it ice-cold and refreshing. And if finishing the whole jar seems like a Herculean task, just pack it up and pop it in the fridge and it’ll stay fresh for three days.
Much like tuak from Borneo, a glass of toddy might give your tummy a warm, fuzzy feeling, but it won’t knock you out. After a few glasses, you might just enjoy a pleasant buzz – nothing too wild, just the right amount of fun.
A buffet of meat peratals served with rice
When it comes to food, Babu Anneh, the ever-friendly restaurant staff, is your go-to guide. Menus aren’t a thing here. Trust his recommendations as he knows exactly what you need and delivers it with a smile, speaking fluent Bahasa Melayu and Tamil.
For starters, there are a variety of meat peratals, a South Indian dry curry that’s spiced to perfection. Babu Anneh gave us the lowdown. Priced at just RM10 per plate, whether it’s chicken or mutton, each peratal offers a hearty and flavourful experience that is simply delicious.
Diners can savour the authentic, home-cooked Indian flavours, where the hearty mix of rice, vegetables, pickles, and papadam creates a feast that’s fit for a king. And here’s the best part – no preservatives mean you won’t be left parched. This is real Indian food, done right.
Enjoy toddy and authentic curry at Chelliah Toppu in Banting
Malaysia is a treasure trove of cultural delights. Among its many gems is toddy, a beverage steeped in its own rich heritage.
If you’re in the mood for a nostalgic journey this Merdeka, consider a visit to Chelliah Toppu. Sipping on toddy is more than just enjoying a drink – it feels like a far cry from the ordinary and a nod to the rich history, reminding us of the sacrifices made for our freedom.
Address: Telok Datok, 42700, Banting, Selangor
Opening hours: 10am-10pm, Daily
Contact: 03-2274 1337
For more unique spots to check out with inspiring stories, read RM2 mixed rice in KL and the history of a 100-year-old bar in Melaka.
Photography by Yusintha.
Cover image adapted from: TheSmartLocal Malaysia
Some quotes have been edited for brevity and clarity.