Kwan Kee Store in Publika
When Kwan Kee Store, a near-60-year-old pastry shop in Hong Kong, shut their doors in mid-2023 with the owner’s retirement, it felt like the end of an era. The shop maintained its spot on Hong Kong’s Michelin Guide for six years straight, from 2016 to 2021.
Just when we thought the flavours of their Hong Kong-style rice cakes in bowls or classic block form were lost to time, the owner’s apprentice stepped up and revived the legacy in Malaysia.
The first Malaysian Kwan Kee Store was launched in SS2, Petaling Jaya, in November 2023, and within less than a year, they made another mark with outlets in Publika, Kuala Lumpur, and Menara Malpakat, Johor Bahru.
We visited their Publika store to bring you this review.
Steamed rice cakes & bread made from freshly milled rice
Kwan Kee Store makes their own rice paste by grinding glutinous rice with stone mills daily – no store-bought rice flour or shortcuts here.
They also have a keen eye on what matters in Malaysia. Securing that recent halal certification was a thoughtful move, allowing them to open their doors and truly offer their treats to everyone.
The rice paste forms the base of Kwan Kee Store’s gluten-free rice bowl cakes (from RM4.90), steamed cakes (from RM6.90), and rice rolls (from RM4.90), which are the mainstays of the menu and must-orders for first-time visitors.
But the brand evolves, proving they can go beyond making their signature sticky bites. The shop’s latest lineup includes rice toast (from RM17.90) and rice pudding bread (from RM19.90) with flavours like pistachio, blueberry, and black truffle.
100% Pistachio Rice Toast
The 100% Pistachio Rice Toast (RM19.90) is filled with pistachio sauce and bits, blended with rice flour into a paste.
A “nut-based paste” sounds grainy but this one isn’t. Ours was still incredibly smooth, gliding across the tongue like a thick mousse.
Pistachio is having its moment in the food scene, so it is easy to know what to expect: a sweet and nutty profile. But Kwan Kee Store shakes things up with a hint of saltiness in their pistachio filling. It felt like eating salted pistachios but in a creamy form.
The toast had a rather subtle rice aroma but its texture stood out: fluffier and moister than regular bread, with a delicate chewiness.
Matcha Rice Pudding Bread
The Matcha Pudding Rice Bread (RM20.90) is warmed up before being served so that the outer layer remains crispy while the pudding inside melts.
After taking a bite, we didn’t know where to begin – the texture or the flavour? Because this pudding bread nailed both.
The matcha pudding lost shape when we tore the bread apart, but it was not a big deal. The roti bakar-like exterior kept it in check, while the stretchy glutinous rice layer underneath provided the perfect support. By now, you can already tell each bite delivers a satisfying mix of textures.
Our non-sweet tooth also appreciated the pudding’s full-bodied matcha flavour with a nice bitter aftertaste. It wasn’t too custardy either – more like a velvety matcha sauce.
Black Sesame Layer Cake
We also sampled one of their famous classics: Black Sesame Layer Cake (RM6.90). It was dense and very sticky. We had to check the mirror several times to make sure our teeth weren’t carrying any nutty souvenirs.
The black sesame flavour was strong as expected but tipped too sweet. If they’d dialled the sugar back by half, this would have won us over completely.
Traditional rice-based pastries by Kwan Kee Store
We’re not pastry chefs or pro-food critics, just pastry enthusiasts – and Kwan Kee Store made us very happy to be there. Their rice cakes aren’t the cheapest around, but the quality and flavours more than justify the price.
Address: D1-G3-8, No 1, Jalan Dutamas 1, Solaris Dutamas, 50480 Kuala Lumpur
Opening hours: 12pm-9pm, Daily
Contact: 011-6188 8442 | Kwan Kee Store Instagram
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Cover image adapted from: TheSmartLocal Malaysia
Photography by xinyeegoh.