Pek Yoke’s Cake in Jalan Yap Ah Loy, KL
We have our share of seriously good eats in Kuala Lumpur. Beyond the established eateries and hippest hotspots, there are a handful of legendary offerings that continue to be patronised by locals and have yet to be discovered by most tourists.
That’s Pek Yoke’s Cake, or simply Pek Yoke to locals, for you. Located in KL’s Jalan Ah Loy, on a quiet street adorned with murals, this pushcart selling Swiss rolls and kaya puffs has been around since 1962, and remains in the hands of its owner, an 84-year-old aunty.
A humble pushcart in a storied alley
Walk around any street in KL, and chances are, you’ll spot something to satisfy your appetite. Jalan Ah Loy is no exception.
In a narrow, storied alley right opposite Menara Maybank, you’ll spot an elderly Chinese aunty quietly tending a pushcart stocked with trays of old-school pastries. That’s 84-year-old Madam Wong Pek Yoke.
A one-woman show, she has been running this family-owned business since the 1960s, just years after Malaysia gained independence.
The story of Yoke’s business began when she sought a way to earn a living with her late husband. After his passing, her son, Mah Keng Wai, began helping her with behind-the-scenes work, such as food preparation. Every tray of Swiss rolls and kaya puffs, or kaya kok among locals, was a labour of love. Today, some steps are simplified to keep up with demand and accommodate her own pace, yet the essence of the food sold here remains unchanged.
Speaking very little Bahasa and a little Cantonese, Yoke shared with TheSmartLocal Malaysia: “Everything was made from scratch in the past. But I am too old now, and I cannot do so. We have a supplier who does most of the back-end work“.
Old-school Swiss rolls & kaya puffs in KL
Operating from 7am, Yoke sells her pastries in small batches. Frequent buyers drop by for their daily snack, while curious passersby are drawn to see what she is selling.
At the heart of her business is soft and fluffy Swiss rolls with homemade kaya carefully applied between the curls of the roll. Sold at an affordable RM2 per slice, the sponge cake is soft and melts in your mouth on its own. It is even more delightful dipped in a hot coffee or tea, making it an iconic minum petang snack for locals.
The next star of the show is the kaya puff. Made with her late husband’s recipe, the outer shell is golden and buttery without being greasy. Priced at RM2.50 per piece, the pastry cracks open to reveal smooth homemade kaya inside, providing a lovely contrast of textures.
Yoke’s pastries often sell out before noon, with regulars and newcomers alike vying for a piece. Here, the old-school charm is palpable, as cash only is accepted and there are no online payments or receipts. So, it is best to come prepared with cash in hand.
The heritage of Pek Yoke’s Cake & Jalan Ah Loy
The connection between Pek Yoke and Jalan Ah Loy is magical. Just across her pushcart, there’s a mural along a stretch of wall that depicts the history of Yap Ah Loy and his journey in Malaysia.
Looking at the murals and glancing at Madam Yoke, who keeps herself occupied with a newspaper as the leakage from the old wooden house above drips onto her stall, a dose of nostalgia hits. It is a gentle reminder of what it means to live alongside history.
Naturally, we asked why she continues this business when she could easily retire.
Yoke shared, “I want to occupy my time, and this keeps me active”.
Watching her stand to greet customers and then sit again, it is clear this aunty is a woman of resilience. Though she speaks little, her calm and humble energy shows that this business is not just about money. It is about continuing a legacy that resonates deeply in the streets of KL.
The future of this stall remains uncertain. It is not clear whether her son will continue the business or if the pushcart will slowly fade from a street that once hosted a very different past.
A local snack, the emblem of a heritage street in KL
In a city of new eateries and modern luxuries, the simple pushcart of Madam Yoke continues to thrive. Visiting her and buying her local delights is not just about satisfying hunger. It is about taking home a piece of history and supporting those who choose to nurture their craft from the heart.
Cover image adapted from: TheSmartLocal Malaysia
Photography by Yusintha.
Some quotes have been edited for brevity and clarity.