i’m donut? at The Exchange TRX review
There’s no doubt that Japan’s i’m donut? arrived in Malaysia with some fanfare. The hottest doughnut shop has crowds stanchioned even before its grand opening in Kuala Lumpur on a Saturday morning.
Now, if you’re wondering why anyone would queue for a humble doughnut, I wondered the same, identifying with that existential question mark in the brand’s name.
Curious, I joined the queues on what would be the shop’s busiest Saturday morning yet: when it first opened at The Exchange TRX, bearing the heavy weight of being the brand’s first Southeast Asia outlet. I expected a bite for breakfast, but ended up having the viral doughnuts for lunch instead when I finally made it through the doors.
What’s the hype about the doughnuts?
Ask anyone who’s sunk their teeth into a doughnut from i’m donut? in Japan, and they’ll likely report the same thing: Incredibly soft. Best doughnuts ever. That’s the appeal of doughnuts from i’m donut ?. They’re softly puffed like freshly fluffed pillows, and moist even with a crisp exterior that’s just barely there.
The secret to i’m donut?’s pillowy doughnuts isn’t really a secret. The doughnut shop proudly uses Japanese kabocha in a brioche dough made with a flour blend to cut the gluten, which results in an airier doughnut. In Malaysia, bananas replace squash. This appears to slightly alter the doughnut texture – the Malaysia-made doughnuts are still soft, but are stretchier, with a slight resistance when torn apart.
What to expect at i’m donut? in Malaysia
Picking out doughnuts is akin to selecting bakes at a bakery: get tongs to clip doughnuts onto your tray. Some fumbling may follow, but there’s no judgment from the staff who’ll happily step in to assist you.
The shop has a rotation of over 30 flavours, but you’ll be lucky to see all of them displayed like luxurious goods on the counter, given how popular they are – it’s more common to come in and find more than one empty spot begging for doughnut refills. Thankfully, the staff regularly tops up doughnuts that have depleted.
Image credit: i’m donut?
To make sure everyone walks away with a doughnut in hand, the shop may also have purchase limits. There’s a strict no-seating policy inside for now too – you’re ushered into the shop, given just enough time to pick and swap out your doughnuts while keeping within the purchase limit, and then ushered out once your order has been packed.
The doughnut flavours at i’m donut? in Malaysia
Chocolate Custard Banana
The Chocolate Custard Banana features its star ingredient up front and centre, no doubt about that. Half a charred banana slice crowns the doughnut, with the other half secretly encased in the chocolate custard filling. The banana completes this doughnut – without a bite of it, the doughnut is just a regular chocolate custard-filled one without much flair.
Price: RM10.50
Rating: 3/5
Cham
Cham – the word for mixing coffee, tea, and milk – is one of several Malaysian-inspired doughnuts created specially for this outpost. Most of the sweetness and flavour comes from the conservative puddle of thick syrup atop the doughnut, with the gritty cream beneath having just a subtle milk tea profile and no hint of coffee notes.
Price: RM10.50
Rating: 2/5
Strawberry Nama French Cruller
i’m donut?’s take on the French cruller – an eclair with doughnut sensibilities – comes with several sweet glaze options. The Strawberry Nama French Cruller steals attention from its fellow sakura-shaped siblings, with a bright pink glaze that doesn’t disappoint with its colour or taste if you like strawberry-flavoured Pocky.
Price: RM8.50
Rating: 3/5
Masala Rendang
The Malaysia-special Masala Rendang was one of the few savoury doughnuts available. It’s one of the most expensive doughnuts on the menu too, but this is expected with the sandwich-like doughnut enveloping a fist-sized boneless chicken, slivers of onions, and a tomato slice.
The Masala Rendang nailed all the flavours of the local dish. However, there was a good amount of sauce that came with it, rendering the signature texture of the pillowy doughnut weak and unable to hold its own against its strong opponent. A disruptive piece of cartilage in the chicken was unpleasant to chew, too.
Price: RM12
Rating: 2/5
I’m donut? Original
If you appreciate simple, well-done flavours, the I’m donut? Original will be for you. The lack of cream or adornments might have you wondering if this is the weaker doughnut of the bunch, but the melt-in-your-mouth texture that’s beloved in i’m donut?’s doughnuts truly shines in this one.
Price: RM4.20
Rating: 5/5
I’m donut? Matcha
The Matcha version of i’m donut?’s signature doughnut also pleases with its simplicity. The green tea is prominent without being sweet, lingering even after the doughnut has been done and dusted.
Price: RM5.80
Rating: 4/5
Sweet Potato TiramisuÂ
There’s more to be desired with the Sweet Potato Tiramisu. Anyone who loves sweet potato will appreciate how the skin-on tuber matches the softness of the doughnuts. But this doughnut might be a little too carby and mellow-flavoured for some – it’s hard to ignore the overall mush of the sweet potato, and the tiramisu flavour was lacking.
Price: RM11
Rating: 2/5
Matcha Anko Sando
The Matcha Anko Sando is quintessentially Japanese. The doughnut sandwich has a matcha crust and doughnut that barely compresses the generous slab of anko, or sweet red bean. The two flavours complement each other nicely, with the red bean just mildly sweet.
Price: RM10
Rating: 3/5
Matcha & Strawberry Mascarpone
If your love for the matcha and strawberry combo hasn’t fizzled out, the Matcha & Strawberry Mascarpone will not disappoint. The doughnut tears apart to reveal a whole strawberry tucked within swirls of sweet strawberry jam and creamy mascarpone, so bites aren’t lacking tartness or sweetness.
Price: RM11
Rating: 5/5
Baked Vanilla ChocolateÂ
The Baked Vanilla Chocolate is reminiscent of crème brûlée, but in doughnut form. A shattering crust, baked to brown perfection, adds an extra layer of crunch to the signature i’m donut? crisp. It’s one of those treats that lures you in with its indulgent aroma even before you sink your teeth into it.
Price: RM8.50
Rating: 3/5
Hojicha Kaya Jam
Another Malaysian exclusive, the Hojicha Kaya Jam is a nod to a locally loved breakfast staple. Just like how kaya should not be skimped when applied on toast, the slather of kaya jam between the Hojicha-flavoured doughnut was generous – almost too much so, to the point where the roasted green tea took on more of a supporting character role, even though it’s the first billed flavour.
Price: RM7
Rating: 3/5
Honey Pine Yogurt
Pineapples on pizza has a new contentious contender: the Honey Pine Yogurt. Packing two thick slices of pineapple in a pool of fluffy yoghurt, the doughnut tastes like summer dancing on your tongue. But this may only be the case if you’re in the camp of people who like pineapples on their food. Skip this if you’re not a fan, as the pineapple flavours are strong here.
Price: RM7
Rating: 3/5
Double Chocolate
The Double Chocolate doesn’t pop as a flavour when compared to the others on the menu, but it’s a staple for anyone who loves classic chocolatey doughnuts. With sticky chocolate glaze, creamy chocolate filling between airy pockets, and bars of chocolate sitting atop, this one should really be called Triple Chocolate.
Price:Â RM9
Rating: 3/5
Zaku Zaku Chocolate
The Zaku Zaku Chocolate is aptly named. Zaku zaku, a Japanese onomatopoeia for crunchy sounds, is what this doughnut is all about – glazed nuts, whole and crumbled, are scattered across a chocolate caramel coating that’s reminiscent of peanut butter.
Price: RM9
Rating: 3/5
Japan-viral doughnuts have landed in Malaysia
Overall, i’m donut? has landed in Malaysia with satisfyingly soft doughnuts and delightful novelty fillings. While prices lean towards the higher side, the quality is consistent, with patrons still able to walk out of the Malaysia outpost with a soft doughnut for under RM5 – that’s if you manage to resist the temptation and actually make it out with just a single doughnut.
If you want to have a taste of the doughnuts yourself, you can now find i’m donut? in The Exchange TRX, at the mall’s Market Lane.
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Cover image adapted from: TheSmartLocal Malaysia, i’m donut?
Photography by Janet.Â
This was an independent visit by TheSmartLocal Malaysia.